Boriqua Blog

Recently, I’ve been hearing a lot of buzz, about a cute spot up in WH on Dyckman Street, called Mamajuana Cafe. Migui and her good friend, Walewska, had happened upon it, and it turned out that one of the amazing waiters was an ex co-worker of Migui’s (there’s probably no one in the business she doesn’t know!). She in turn, told me that it looked like it merited a closer look, and she was willing to take the bullet for this one, trooper that she is!

Right around the time that Migui was set to visit Mamajuana, we ran into Executive Chef Ricardo Cardona from another uptown gem, 809, quite by accident at another event, and were thrilled to learn that he was a consultant for the Mamajuana Cafe menu . He suggested we pay a visit, and so we set out last night; Migui, her sister Wendy, their close friend Walewska, and yours truly decided to make an evening of it.

We were given menus that start out with a nice selection of Picoteos (snacks or bites). We ordered the pulpo salad (bright, citrusy, and delicious), the piquillo peppers stuffed with crabmeat served on a puddle of saffron sauce (I briefly considered taking an order of this back home for Jerry…that’s how delicious it was!), the paella croquettes (a special for the day…did not disappoint), a charcuteria board with cured meats and cheeses (Waleska does not feel she has eaten unless she has her serving of salchichon!), and a white coca which was bubbling with gooey manchego, mahon, mozzerella, and queso blanco on a crisp thin crust that snapped when you bit into it. I could have easily made a meal out of that coca.

Pulpo Salad

Piquillo Peppers Stuffed with Crabmeat

Paella Croquettes

Charcuteria

I could have easily called it an evening, but these girls are serious when it comes to good food. Waleska was adamant that she and Wendy share an order of the “Puerquito”, and Migui said it would be a shame if I didn’t taste it, because it was as close to a religious experience as she’s ever had outside Church! Okay, I’m sold, but let’s order one more entree so I can gauge the course a bit better. Our waitress advised that there was a great special today of red snapper stuffed with spicy shellfish and served atop coconut rice. STOP THE WORLD, I’M GETTING OFF!!! The entrees were served with rice with pigeon peas, and we ordered some yuca fries. I rolled up my sleeves and was ready to go!

First of all, the “puerquito” is a misnomer…it should be called “puercaso” because to me it looked like half a pernil! There is no way humanly possible that one human being could consume that amount of meat. That being said, when it was served to us, we let out a communal “aaahhhhh” that could be heard from across the room. The skin was crispy and delicious, the meat fragrant and juicy (nothing turns me off faster than dry pernil), and the pickled red onions that were served on top offered the perfect brine for the unctuousness of the meat. The side of arroz con gandules was unremarkable, but the yuca fries were to die for, with Wendy remarking that maybe it was a yuca/potato blend, because they did not get dry and hard as they cooled.

“Puerquito with arroz con gandules”

I was in the happy zone for sure when they brought out the evening’s surprise: The Red Snapper Special. I found the delicateness of the fish the perfect frame for the spicy seafood salad of shrimp, bay scallops, and calamari…but then your fork hits a sweet spot under the fish and comes away with flakes of fish, spicy salad, and a white rice flavored with coconut milk that was as delicious as any I have tasted at Mami’s table! It was Carnivale in my mouth!! I love when a dish balances aroma, color, taste and texture like that!

Red Snapper stuffed with Crabmeant on Coconut Rice

Yuca fries with mojito de ajo

I’m not much of a “sweets” person, but this had been such a hit so far, I couldn’t leave without the round robin, so we ordered Tres Leches (light cake, creamy sauce, not too sweet), with Budin de pan (bread pudding) with dulce de leche ice cream ( I thought the spice notes could have been a bit more pronounced, but the texture was good) and a special platter of three different flans:coffee, coconut and classic accompanied by a mini budin (the flans were lovely).

I found Mamajuana a great evening out, the food memorable, and the atmosphere unpretentious and cozy. Definately give it a try the next time you get an itch for a little something Dominican!

Mamajuana Cafe
247 Dyckman St Between Seaman and Payson st
New York, NY, 10034
Office (212) 304-1217 Reservations (212) 304-0141

10 Comments »

January 6th, the Feast of the Epiphany, is called El Dia de Los Reyes, in Spain, and all over Latin America. My Mami would tell me stories, when I was a little girl, about celebrating El Dia de Los Reyes in Puerto Rico when she was a little girl. She filled my imagination with images of children filling their shoes or shoe boxes with hay, or grass and place them under the bed for the camels to eat. The Three Reyes Magos would then leave little presents for the children (if they had been well behaved for the past year), where the hay had been. Mami never made Rosca de Reyes, but in Spain, and especially in Mexico, a rosca is served for the traditional merienda, along with chocolate caliente.

The rosca would be baked with a special surprise inside: a small porcelein figurine that represented the Infant Jesus (today a bean can be substituted). The person who gets the piece with the figurine, is responsible for buying the tamales for El Dia de la Candelaria, or Candelmas, February 2. Needless to say, these are the little “traditions” that I love to introduce to my children, educating them to the richness of culture and tradition in their Latino heritage.

My search for the perfect rosca was on! I must have tasted a truckload of roscas, from all over: Mexico, the United States, friends’ recipes. My rosca is going to vary a bit , but I served it to a good friend of mine from Puebla, and her eyes got wide as she smiled. “This tastes exactly like the one back home!!” That is certainly a good enough critique for me. Let me walk you through it.

1 package dry yeast
1 tablespoon warm water
1/2 cup milk
1 stick butter
1/2 cup granulated sugar
Zest of 2 oranges
Zest of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon salt
3 1/2 cups flour
3 large eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla

1. Proof the yeast in the warm water for about 10 minutes, or until foamy. Heat the milk gently in a samall saucepan, with the sugar, salt and butter, but do not let it scald. Set it aside until the temp returns to about 110 degrees, and add the vanilla.

2. Stir some of the milk mixture into the beaten eggs, whisking, then pour the egg mixture into the milk. Place the dry ingredients, along with the zest into the bowl of a standing mixture, and with a paddle attachment, slowly stir while pouring the egg/milk mixture in.

Do not overbeat, you want a well incorporated, smooth but still soft dough. Using a rubber spatula, turn the dough out onto a well floured board.

3. Knead gently for about 5 minutes, shape into a ball, place in a well oiled bowl, then flip the ball over. Cover with a towel, and set aside for the first rise in a warm, dry place for about an hour to 90 minutes, or until doubled in size.

Not all roscas have a filling, but you know me…less is not more, so I am making a marzipan filling that is going to complement the citrus notes in the bread.

2 cups almond flour
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 tablespoons orange flower water
2 tablespoons orange juice
1/2 teasponn almond extract
1 dry bean (to substitute the figurine)

4. Place the ingredients in a bowl , and stir to combine with a fork. Punch down the dough and roll ot on a well floured board to a size of about 20 x 18. Leave a margin of about 2 inches on one side of the rectangle where you will end the roll and pinch to seal.

Almond flour-sugar mixture

5.  Pick the dough up on the long side nearest you, andgently roll the dough and almond flour mixture away from you. When the roll is complete, pinch the dough together to form a seam along the length of the roll.

6.  Join the 2 ends of the roll together, pinching again to form a seam in the ring, and place on an oiled sheet.

7. Cover with a towel and set aside to rise for the second time, 30-45 minutes. Brush the ring with 1 egg and a tablespoon of milk, then decorate with sliced almonds and candied fruit peel Brush again with the glace, then sprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake in a preheated oven at 350 degrees for about 35 minutes, or until golden brown, and hollow sounding when you thump it with your finger. Let cool and enjoy with hot chocolate or cafe con leche.

Don’t forget, the person who gets the slice with the “bean” has to spring for lunch on Candlemas!

Feliz Dia de Los Reyes!

6 Comments »